When buying or selling a home things we take for granted can often become a major problem at the time of sale. Windows are frequently such a problem. Whether it is the type of window, wood vs. aluminum; the style of window,casement vs. double-hung; the maker, Pella vs. Acorn; or actual damage, at $200.00 a window this can be a major item to a buyer.
First, lets' discuss damaged or defective windows. Windows that are foggy have what is called a ruptured seal. This means that the air space between the panes of glass is no longer sealed. This allows moisture to get inside and fog up the window. While this does not effect the insulating characteristics of the window it does not look nice. The only fix is replacement. Other problems that can only be corrected by replacing the window are cracks, holes, and deteriorated decorative inserts. Decorative inserts that frequently cause problems are tape lines that were put between the glass at the time of manufacture. After many years of exposure to the sunlight the tape disintegrates and crumbles to the bottom of the window. The type of window or construction is important. Wood windows are considered to be more energy efficient than metal framed windows but can require more maintenance. Metal windows have a tendency to sweat on the inside in the winter especially if you have your humidifier turned up too high. The collection of moisture on the frame can cause deterioration of the window sill and in the wall immediately surrounding the window. This creates additional problems for a seller at the time the house is sold. Vinyl clad windows seem to be a popular compromise between wood and metal windows. Additionally, they usually are constructed to facilitate cleaning. As far as style or maker, this is infrequently an issue with a purchaser when a home is sold. It can be a plus if the windows are better than what is normally found in the style and price range of the home being considered. Windows can be important to the value of your home. Take the time to look at, not through, yours. For additional information send me a note via E-mail or contact a licensed contractor listed in the Yellow Pages.

We take them all for granted and they only quit on a Saturday night but hot water tanks are subject to severe scrutiny when a home is sold. Ranging in size from 30 gallons to 80 in most residential properties, the average life of a hot water tank is twenty-three years. While they are usually heated by the burning of natural gas or by electricity, hot water tanks all operate the same. Water enters into the tank from the top filling a chamber either glass or metal lined. In the tank the cold water is heated and kept hot until it is required in some portion of the house. The ability of a tank to heat water is usually measured as its recovery rate. The recovery rate is how much water the hot water tank will heat in one hour. An 80-gallon tank with a 40-gallon recovery rate allows you get hot water every two hours if you used all 80 gallons each time you used it. Hot water tanks can represent a safety hazard. All should have a safety or pressure relief valve. For electric hot water tanks, make sure all electrical connections are proper to avoid electrocution. Gas hot water tanks give off gases from combustion which must be vented outside the home just as they are in your furnace. Finally, some warning signals that let you know that your tank is about to fail. If you have an electric tank, you may find that the water does not seem to stay hot as long. This might mean one of your electric elements may be burned out. With a gas tank you may see dark streaking that looks like smoke stains at the service panel to the burner. In both cases this means you are not heating the water properly and will probably need a new tank in soon. With either type of tank, you may hear a gurgling sound. This is from sediment building up inside the tank and suggests the tank is approaching the end of its useful life. If you have questions send me a note via E-mail.

In parts of our area we have run across homes that are not on public sewers. These homes are relying on septic systems that frequently require some explanation. Septic systems generally are made up of two major components: the septic tank and the tile field. The septic tank is a large, frequently over 1000 gallons in size, cement tank usually with a divider giving it two compartments. All waste water flows into the tank where most solid material settles. As the tank fills it spills over into the next compartment where more solids settle out. When the water fills the second compartment, itreaches an outlet pipe. The outlet pipe takes the waste water away from the tank to the tile field. The tile field is a large area in the yard where the liquid spreads out and is absorbed by the soil. The tile field usually has clay crock pipe for moving the liquid resting on a bed of gravel and sand to help in absorption. You seldom have any idea of exactly where a tile field is other than to notice even in the hot summer months that certain patches of grass in the yard seem to always be green and grow a little faster than the rest of the yard. Since this type of sewage disposal system is less common, people are frequently afraid of them. This does not have to be the case. There are, however, certain things to do and watch out for. Since the ability of the system to function properly depends on the waste water getting to the tile field, anything that could block the clay pipes should be avoided. The common causes of blockage are the lint from washing machines and garbage from garbage disposals. Another problem can be a septic tank that is too small for the family using it. If solids are not able to settle out in the tank they will go into the tile field and eventually cause blockage. Once the system is blocked, it becomes very expensive to correct the problem. Having the septic tank pumped once every two years is usually a good preventive measure. Should you have concerns about a septic system send me a note via E-mail. I can give you the names of contractors who might be of assistance.

Many homes in the area are brick. Because of our climate we need to be concerned about how this effects these brick exteriors. If you look at a home with a brick exterior you will probably see two problems that need to be corrected. One of these problems is the need for tuck-pointing. Tuck-pointing fixes the mortar holding bricks together that has become loose. This can occur because of age, the freeze and thaw of winter, or the effects of foundation settling. The first thing you should try and do whenever you have such a problem is find out what caused it. If you find the cause correct it unless you can determine that it is unlikely to recur. It does no good to repair a problem that is going to recur. Common places to look are brick porch foundations, around windows and doors and where you see signs of settling. Repairing the problem requires that you remove the loose mortar and clean out the gap. Fill the space with fresh cement and let it set. Once dry, remove the excess with a wire brush. The other problem you frequently see on brick homes is spauling. This is when the face of the brick has crumbled or fallen off. The problem is usually the direct result of the brick staying damp and then having the water freeze. Since brick is porous the ice pops off the face of the brick. This problem usually occurs on the north side of the house or where trees or other foliage keeps the bricks from drying out. The only way to repair the problem is to remove the damaged brick and replace it with one that is not damaged. You must find a way to eliminate the moisture problem or it will occur again. What can tuck pointing or the repair of spauling brick cost? If easily accessible and corrected the cost can be under $500.00. If the problem goes unattended and occurs on a chimney where a scaffold may be needed it can run over $2,000.00. If minor, it seldom hurts a sale. The sale could fall through if the problem is major and an accommodation cannot be made. For more information send me a note via E-mail or call a licensed masonry contractor.

©1996 Bob Taylor
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